So, you’re parking your EV for a while. Maybe it’s a classic summer road trip vehicle you won’t need all winter. Or perhaps you’re heading abroad for a few months and leaving your trusty electric car behind. Honestly, the process is a bit different than just throwing a cover over a gas-powered car and calling it a day.
Here’s the deal: an EV in long-term storage isn’t just about the battery—though that’s the star of the show. It’s about the whole system. Tires, brakes, software, climate control. You know, the works. Let’s dive into a practical, step-by-step guide to tucking your EV in for a long nap, ensuring it wakes up just as healthy and happy as when you left it.
The Heart of the Matter: Your EV’s Battery Pack
Think of your EV’s high-voltage battery like a hibernating bear. You don’t want it starving (fully discharged), and you don’t want it stuffed to the brim (fully charged) either. Both extremes cause stress. For long-term storage, the sweet spot is a state of charge (SOC) between 50% and 70%. Most manufacturers recommend around 50%.
Why? A mid-level charge minimizes the chemical reactions that lead to degradation. It’s a stable, comfortable place for those lithium-ion cells to rest. If you’re storing for a season—say, over winter—check the charge every month or so. The battery will lose a small amount of charge, a trickle, and you don’t want it dipping too low.
A Quick Note on Temperature
Where you store the car matters almost as much as the charge level. Extreme cold is a drain, literally. Extreme heat accelerates chemical aging. If you can, store the vehicle in a cool, dry garage. A consistent 50-70°F (10-21°C) is ideal. If it’s going to sit in freezing temps, that 50% charge buffer becomes even more critical. The battery management system will still sip a tiny amount of power to keep itself safe, and you need enough in the tank—so to speak—for that.
Beyond the Battery: A Full Vehicle Checklist
Okay, battery’s set. But your EV is still a car, with wheels, brakes, and a cabin. Neglecting these is a common mistake. Here’s your full pre-storage to-do list.
Tire and Suspension Care
EVs are heavy. Let one sit in one spot for months, and you risk flat spots on the tires. It’s not always permanent, but that thump-thump-thump on your first drive back is no fun. Inflate your tires to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall (not the door jamb sticker—that’s for normal use). This helps combat the flattening. For storage over six months, consider jack stands to take the weight off the suspension and tires entirely. A bit of work, but worth it for peace of mind.
Brake and Rust Prevention
This one’s sneaky. Because of regenerative braking, your physical brakes barely get used. Moisture can sit on the rotors and… well, cause rust. A lot of it. Before storage, give the brakes a good, old-fashioned hard stop or two (safely, of course) to clean off any surface corrosion and dry them. Some owners even apply a thin, non-sticky lubricant to the rotors—though check your manual, as some advise against it.
Interior and Exterior Prep
Don’t invite critters or mold to a party in your car. Remove all food crumbs. Seriously, vacuum. Use a moisture absorber in the cabin. Clean the interior thoroughly. For the exterior, a good wash and wax protects the paint. A breathable car cover is fantastic if stored indoors; if outdoors, it’s essential—but make sure it’s a quality, breathable one to avoid trapping moisture underneath.
The “Smart” Storage: Software and Connectivity
Modern EVs are like giant smartphones on wheels. That connectivity drains the 12-volt battery—the small battery that powers the locks, computers, and infotainment. This is a huge pain point. To prevent it from dying and stranding you:
- Disable any constant data-sharing or telemetry features in your car’s app/console if possible.
- Turn off cabin climate pre-conditioning schedules.
- Consider using a 12-volt battery maintainer (trickle charger). Plug it in. It’s the single best thing you can do to avoid a frustrating no-start situation later.
And, a quirky tip: if your car has sentry mode or dashcams in parking mode, for heaven’s sake, turn them off. They’ll drain both batteries in days.
Seasonal Shifts: Winter vs. Summer Storage
The season you’re storing through changes the focus a bit. Here’s a quick breakdown:
| Season | Primary Concern | Key Adjustment |
| Winter Storage | Battery charge loss in cold, tire pressure drop. | Charge to 70-80% initially for buffer. Check monthly. Inflate tires more. 12V maintainer is critical. |
| Summer Storage | Heat accelerating battery degradation, interior damage. | Store at 50% SOC max. Prioritize cool, shaded location. Sunshield for windshield. Moisture control inside. |
The Grand Reawakening: Getting Back on the Road
Don’t just jump in and drive off. Take 10 minutes for a revival ritual. Inspect the tires for pressure and cracks. Check for any animal nesting (it happens!). Plug in the car to top up the high-voltage battery slowly. Turn on systems one by one. And on that first drive, be gentle. Listen for odd sounds, feel for brake roughness. Use the brakes deliberately a few times to scrape off any surface rust.
Honestly, that first smooth, silent glide out of the driveway will feel like a triumph. You’ve not just stored a car; you’ve preserved a complex, amazing piece of technology. And that foresight—well, it pays off in longevity, performance, and just plain avoiding a headache. The relationship with an EV is a bit more symbiotic than with an old ICE car. You take care of it with a little extra thought, and it faithfully takes care of you, mile after quiet mile.
